| Name |
Comments |
| 314) |
Nick Poll |
| brufsup@aol.com |
Location:
France |
  |
|
Hello,
I need to find someone who can make me a good quality valenced front mudguard for a 1933 SS100 with Castle forks. I have one, but it's not good. Secondly, should I get the bikes frame sprayed or powder coated ? Nick.
 Wilfried 2.7.2008 21:26
Hi Nick,
I need a good front mudguard, too. Ernie Rowe said he will make me one, if I supply him the correct central mudguard blade. I am not sure where to get this. Having had my experiences with Pete Lovett, I have not got any farther yet. Some of his stuff is wonderful, some is crap. If you find a solution, I'd sure be interested to hear.
Re powder coating - this is surely a durable finish but I'd not use it on a vintage frame. I once needed to repair a set of Castle fork legs with powder coating on them - what a mess!
It will be very hard to remove it from a whole frame if you need to. I have used it on the occasional foot brake lever and on the rims of my 680 but that's it.
cheers Wilfried
|
Charlie Taylor 4.7.2008 00:00
Hi Nick and Wilfried;
I'm a believer in powder coating, having used it for years on various restorations, for customers, and on my own bikes.I powder coat frames,cycle parts, struts, stands, wheel rims etc., and use conventional paint on tanks,headlight shells,mudguards,toolboxes and brakeplates.The trick is finding a really good motorcycle oriented powder coater.Fear not, they're out there.Also,you need to keep in mind that the final job is only as good as the metal it covers, although there are now some high-heat fillers on the market.It's not hard to match the color of the powder coated pieces with the conventionally painted bits, as long as it's black we're talking about.Powder coating can be removed with solvents, or blasting, if need be, but yes, it is a pain.Fortunately I've not had to do this very often.It also can be carefully sanded and polished.One other thing: it's the spiritual descendant of stove enammeling, so why not go for it!
best,
Charlie
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|
| 313) |
Bob Withers |
| brufsupmembers@aol.com |
Location:
Ringwood, UK |
 |
|
Probably a good idea to remind those posting comments, etc., that your entry will not appear until it has been accepted by the moderators. This is purely because of the amount of spam that would otherwise clog the board up.
Please be patient.
|
| 312) |
Thomas Zimmerman |
| bilashaka@aol.com |
Location:
Boston, MA |
 |
|
Any reasonably priced Brough Superior the Rolls Royce of Motorcycles books out there?
Any other sources of literature worth getting?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Bob Withers 29.6.2008 11:44
Tom,
There is a copy on Ebay, finishing at about 20.30 UK time today, Sunday 29 June, item no. 170232067267. At the moment, the top bid is 16GBP. Worth a go, I suggest...
Good luck!
(Oh, nearly forgot, welcome aboard!!)
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|
| 311) |
Chris Powell |
| devontemplar@aol.com |
Location:
Worcestershire |
| |
|
Re: the lady who needed a BS for filming in Dorset on 13th June...any idea how the filming went?, and when we should be looking out for the programme on telly?
|
| 310) |
Vic Knight |
| Vic.Knight@btinternet.com |
Location:
London |
 |
|
Some time ago when I queried the actually size of SS 100 pipes I was told that ‘all SS 100 pipes are 2”.O/D’. If that is the case the, beautifully made, exhaust nuts supplied by John English are incorrect as these are made to fit 1 7/8” pipes. Could it be that someone in the past said they were 2” pipes and it has been accepted as gospel or else they looked at a JAP data sheet and saw 2”. This idea goes back some time as a pair of silencers I have, which we bought from the club 35/40 years ago, fit a 2” pipe.
It was suggested that people bought Speedway exhaust nuts as they were readily available. For that to happen everyone was replacing their exhaust system with smaller diameter pipes.
The bore of the nut is 2.20” which means that after allowing clearance, to slide up the pipe, the actual clamping surface is 0.092. Against 0.15” for a 1 7/8” pipe.
With regards to SS 100 silencers how are they connected to the support arm? Short strip curving over top of upper and under lower with fixing holes on straight part Or tube welded to top of the lower and underneath upper to line up with the holes in the mounting arm.
Vic
Wilfried 28.6.2008 12:09
Hi Vic,
it was me who suggested the 1 7/8" pipe diameter some months ago, as you say, based on measuring an exhaust nut that was possibly a speedway part. Howard Wilcox then corrected me, saying ALL SS100's had 2" pipes. Nobody else commented on this, so it should be true, I suppose. Any comments?
Opening up the nuts a little should not be a problem, but you are of course right, the land remaining to clamp the pipe flange gets a bit narrow.
cheers
Wilfried
|
dave clark 29.6.2008 02:14
THE NUTS HAVE BEEN MADE INCORRECTLY. ALL JAP 100 PIPES ARE 2".
DEFINITIVE & ORIGINAL B&D JAP SS100 EXHAUST SYSTEM SETUP
FRONT PIPE.
Pipe has strip tab brazed to it ,sticking out horizontally,just under the kickstart boss.A loose steel strip clamp is fitted to the lower horizontal frame rail.Tab on front pipe bolted to clamp.
With this the exhaust nut is trapped on the pipe by the brazed on tab, & has to be plated thus,same goes for rear pipe.
REAR PIPE
Steel strip tab brazed vertical down on pipe,to line up & bolt onto B & D main pivot bolt.
SILENCER SUPPORT STRUT
16 gauge tube, 3/4" dia,shaped similar to hockey stick,front end of tube bolted to lug just behind offside B & D frame damper boss. The tube angles rearwards/downwards about 15 degrees, then the hockey stick bend/ end is set over to clear the silencer bulge, & set vertical down,vertical down part is flattened with trapped tube 16 gauge insert & bolted to the two studs on the front silencer interconnection tube.
TRAPPED TUBE
when flattening the tube, a 16 gauge steel strip is inserted in the tube as it is partly flattened, to fit the letterbox hole so formed.
The whole setup must allow exhaust/frame clearance over the working range of the suspension.
Setup the silencer position with the bike on its wheels and loaded up with a normal riders weight onboard.
DON'T do it with the bike on the rear stand.
IF YOU DO THE RESULTING SIDE PROFILE LOOKS BLOODY AWFUL.
B&D FRAME DAMPER SETTING
FIRST SET THE SPINDLES SO THEY HAVE ABOUT 0.030" END FLOAT WITH THE LINK DAMPER NUTS BACKED RIGHT OFF.
REAR DAMPERS BOLTED UP DEAD TIGHT OVER THE STAR WASHER.
DAMPER LINK ADJUSTMENT
TIGHTEN THE NUTS EQUALLY BOTH SIDES
SO WHEN YOU BOUNCE THE SUSPENSION DOWN THE RETURN RATE IS ABOUT HALF THAT OF THE DOWNWARDS RATE.
THAT IS ALL
|
Nick Poll. 30.6.2008 12:55
Not all SS100's have 2" pipes. The MX100's use smaller.
|
DAVE CLARK 30.6.2008 23:46
The above piece by me refers ONLY to JAP 100,as made PLAIN in the headings.
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|
| 309) |
Paul Larson |
| palars1@yahoo.com |
Location:
Houston, Texas, USA |
 |
|
Wanted: Brough SS80. Any condition considered, your price paid. A good home is offered for a Brough in any condition. Years of rebuilding Triumph, Velocette, Norton have not stopped that persistent itch. I will treat it well and pass it on to a good home when my time comes.
Regard
Paul Larson
Bob Withers 21.6.2008 08:44
If its any help, Paul has just joined the club. Welcome aboard!
|
|
| 308) |
Vic Knight |
| Vic.Knight@btinternet.com |
Location:
London |
| |
|
Has anyone any experience of 'brazing' aluminium, instead of welding? Been reading about HTS 2000, a low temperature brazing material, seems to good to be true, although the list of industrial users in USA is impressive. They claim repairs to cylinder heads, bell housings etc. As it works at around 740F/380C it could help to avoid distortion which can come with aluminium welding.
Vic
Barry Brown 19.6.2008 15:42
This is a huge topic. You would be best advised to obtain a copy of The Brazing Handbook put out by the American Welding Society. Library of Congress # 91-70805 or International Standard Book Number 0-87171-359-4.
Be advised that not all aluminum alloys can be brazed. Certain casting alloys often prevent adequate wetting by filler metal due to their unique oxide film combination. These alloys also melt at temperatures below those of comercilly available filler metals. Some experimental low melting filler metals can be deemed successful however joint strength may be compromised. If you are serious you should aquire the book.
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Vic Knight 24.6.2008 21:22
Thanks for reply. Around 30/35 years ago I learnt to weld aluminium and was offered work but never used the skill, preferring to repairing office equipment. Knowing the problems with ally welding, distortion etc. virtually brazing seemed an answer. I checked on the book, $10 when new, seems unavailable now except s/h for $78.00, guess I will let it lie.
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Barry Brown 28.6.2008 11:49
Vic, I will photocopy the section on aluminum brazing and send it to you. Is your address as in the roster?
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Vic Knight 29.6.2008 22:47
Barry, Thanks for that, yes 83 etc
vic
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|
| 307) |
Tom |
| bilashaka@aol.com |
Location:
USA |
| |
|
Looking for an ss100 project. Any leads?
|
| 306) |
Pete Staughton |
| pstaughton@aol.com |
Location:
- |
| |
|
Grateful if anyone has any recommendations for suppliers or repairers of sidecar leaf springs! One of mine broke today, combination of potholes and speed humps and definitely not going too fast. Thanks in anticipation.
Pete
Vic Knight 18.6.2008 20:37
A long way from Northampton but the MG V8 section recommend
Brost Forge Ltd
Unit 7 Roman Way
London N7 8XH Tel. 020 7607 2311
|
Dave Clark 20.6.2008 12:31
Pete, yes Brost is good , they reset a petrol tube set, including one new leaf ,
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|
| 305) |
Natalie Samson |
| natalie@doghousefilms.co.uk |
Location:
Dorset |
| |
|
Hi Brough Superior owners,
We are a small television production company filming a short documentary series for Channel five.
We will be filming in Dorset on the 13th of June and would love to get some shots of a Brough Superior on that day.
Is there anyone who owns a Brough living in that area?
If you do I would love to hear from you.
Regards,
Natalie Samson
Production Manager
Dog House Media
Ph: 0208 7611 782
Email: natalie@doghousefilms.co.uk
Terry Hobden 4.6.2008 19:22
Just to let Members know that she has made contact with me and I have put her in touch with a Member with an 1150. Not ideal but no one nearby with a 100 was available. She has promised no close-ups!
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Bob Withers 15.6.2008 19:22
I take it that the comment about no one nearby with a 100 is a reflection on TEL riding SS100's. His first BS was an SS80, I believe...
I do hope that this is not reflection on sv BS's. Check the works records - most BS's were sv's...
I'm not into promoting a debate, or worse, a ding-dong, but I do get a bit worried that all the world and his dog consider a BS is not a BS unless it has OHV's...
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Cameron Murray 17.6.2008 11:28
Well put Bob
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Steve Batsford 18.6.2008 11:59
Well said Bob. This obsession with OHVs can get right on your whatsits! For carefree riding choose a SV everytime.
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